Sunday, March 20, 2016

When Long Island Went Coastal


Queen Victoria led her countrymen to the seashore throughout her reign of Great Britain from 1837 until her death in 1876. The Queen is often credited with encouraging her subjects to spend "restorative sessions" at the  beach.

As a young monarch, Victoria spent summers on the shores of Osborne, frolicking about and collecting shells with her nine children and Prince Albert. 

The Queen also swam. This she accomplished with the aid of a “bathing machine,” 
Queen Victoria's Bathing machine" | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Queen Vic's actual bathing machine at Osbourne*
a gypsy-type caravan that allowed her to change, privately, into a bathing dress with bloomers, hat, stockings, and soft-soled shoes. The caravan was then drawn to the water where the Queen emerged from behind its closed door to be escorted down steps into the sea. However, most of the Queen’s subjects couldn’t afford such extravagant relaxation. *

Similarly across the pond, and on Long Island in particular, it was the U.S. monarchy who discovered the tranquility of the sea. By the 1890s wealth earned from the Second Industrial Revolution had built 500 mansions along the North Shore’s “Gold Coast” in one 70-square mile radius. Among the residents: Vanderbilts, Whitneys, Woolworths, Kahns, and Roosevelts. 

However, just before the turn of the century, hundreds of miles of LI coastline had housed smelly, fish-oil factories (see previous blog) that produced fertilizer. Since 1870, the Long Island Railroad (LIRR) at Sag Harbor and Greenport had provided transport for the product to farm stops all along LI’s north and south forks. But by 1897, once the Gold Coast was firmly established, those industries were gone. Much of the land beneath those  farms now housed small developments and service businesses. Also of great importance to the rise in popularity of LI beaches,  the LIRR turned its full attention toward commuters. Trains were the way to travel. Long Island roadways were still 20 years away from Robert Moses’ paved and gardened parkways.

At the turn of the century, the railroad company hired a special agent, Hal B. Fullerton, to lure more visitors to Long Island. Fullerton did so by, first, encouraging bicyclists to ride the train to the east end where random roadways awaited their exploration on two wheels.  Fullerton blanketed the New York boroughs with billboards and pamphlets that promised exploration and relaxation. One summer, 150,000 LIRR passengers loaded their bikes onto the LIRR and headed for the extremities of the 101-mile stretch. **


Of course it wasn’t long before these cyclists began to discover favorite beaches, and soon resort hotels, closer to Manhattan on the shores of Coney Island and Brighton Beach, flourished (though several earlier attempts had failed). Rapidly, small inns and grand hotels sprouted along the coasts of Oyster Bay, Northport, East Hampton, Shelter Island, and beyond to Orient and Montauk. 

So in much larger numbers, and in increasingly less modest attire, Americans took to the beach. It was a trend not missed by the young Robert Moses who had begun planning his roads to the south shore long before 1924 when he first headed the Long Island Parks’ Commission. Moses knew it was the automobile age, and he saw the future of relaxation in a family car trip to Jones Beach. He just needed to build a parkway system to get drivers there. Once he accomplished that, by 1929,  the beach frontier of Long Island flew wide open. During four decades at the helm of the Parks Commission, Moses dedicated 15 coastal parks, and with his many other huge accomplishments became known as the “Power Broker.”

Robert Moses with Battery Bridge model.jpg
ROBERT MOSES C.M. Stieglitz, World Telegram staff photographer - Library of Congress. New York World-Telegram & Sun Collection. http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.pnp/cph.3c36079

Today, on Long Island, all roads lead to the beach. Even though some swaths of sand are only open to local residents, public beaches abound and thousands upon thousands of people from all over the world come by train, boat, and plane to bask in the beauty of the Long Island coast, where not so long ago, only fishermen and factories reigned.

The cultural clash that accompanied this transition is the topic of  my novel Don't Ya Know, a Long Island story from 1900-1928.




*http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2174602/Queen-Victorias-private-beach-Osborne-opened-public.htm h
**htttp://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/05/nyregion/an-exhibition-of-century-old-long-island-photographs-at-the-heckscher-museum.html?_r=0





Suzanne McLain Rosenwasser is the author of several books:

Order paperbacks or ebooks at all online sellers or click here for Amazon orders:

Sunday, March 6, 2016

Fish Oil Factories on Long Island





Fish Oil Factories and the Long Island Stench 
by Suzanne McLain Rosenwasser




Photo: George Bradford Brainerd (American, 1845-1887). Deserted Fish Oil Factory, Shelter Island, New York, ca. 1872-1887. Collodion silver glass wet plate negative Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn Museum/Brooklyn Public Library, Brooklyn Collection, 1996.164.2-360 



Fish oil factories dotted the 400 miles of Long Island’s coastline before the early 20th century. 

Before Long Island's coast was discovered as a respite for the weary, it housed huge and smelly fish oil factories at points along its shore where fish oil production was the mainstay of the economy for generations. Locals seined mossbunker, slimy fish indigenous to the area, and boiled them with bat guano. The word guano refers to dung used as an agricultural fertilizer; it's usually found on rocks or on the floors of caves. Mining bat and seabird guano from  ice-age deposits of granite all over the LI  was an industry in itself. Locals scraped fresh or fossilized guano into pails and sold the contents by weight to the fish oil factories.They pressed the resulting mush to extract an oil known in the trade as 'Long Island Shit.' Containers of the thick, slimy oil were transported to depots where it was processed into fertilizer. 

The oily slime was then spread on lima bean, tomato, and potato fields all across Long Island's farms which stretched far and wide between its shorelines before the arrival of the Victorian era and the discovery of sunbathing by the seaside



Practical Gardening: Apply Homemade Fish Emulsion Fertilizer










East End bayman, Bruce Collins (a menhaden fleet fisherman from 1954-1960), spoke at the East Hampton Library in 2015 about the industry in the Twomey Lecture Series. The East Hampton Star's Irene Silverman covered the event in an article entitled: "The Most Valuable Fish That Swims," (Sept. 24, 2015). She reported that Mr. Collins said the fish oil factories were centered in an area of Gardiner's Bay known as "Promised Land" because of the enormous schools of menhaden found there:

“These fish were put on the face of the earth just to feed other fish. They have no teeth. They swim in huge schools with their mouths open. You can cast into a school of a million bunkers all day long and never catch one. They’re not going to take your lure," Collins said. 


In the 21st century, the popularity of fish oil for medicinal and cosmetic uses has increased the mossbunker's value. Billions of the bony fish are caught with hydraulic cranes attached to huge nets. However, in the early days, it was huge men who were hired to haul the bunker nets. This required no particular maritime skill other than pure brawn.  In The Fish Factory, Barbara Garrity-Blake writes this factor contributed to integration on Long Island when many muscular, black men turned to menhaden fleets for work.

Processing fish oil wasn't the only large industry along that stretch of the eastern seaboard. In fact, horse processing plants joined fish oil processors to further pollute the shores and let loose an ever more odious smell. This kept the hardiest of souls from trying to get a breath of fresh air at the beach. One factory worker said it was an odor of "sewage and death."
www.szannerosenwasser.com

Don't Ya Know, a Long Island novel by Suzanne McLain Rosenwasser, available at online retailers.

Friday, December 4, 2015

A Dare to be Great Situation

We are fatigued. We are spirit-worn, afraid, and sore. We have been bloodied and bruised and bloodied again by our own race – the human one, the one in which we all have a stake.

Whether it’s Paris. San Bernadino. Beirut. It hardly matters any more, for we’ve turned against ourselves. On December 1, 2015 the mother of a six month old deliberately shot and killed other mothers. And had there been a six month old nearby, she would have killed an infant as well.

My mind tries to make sense of this and fails because the pains of Sandy Hook and so many other shootings dwell within me, festering again each time another atrocity takes place. Imagine the agony of those who loved these innocents.

This morning, quite by accident, I came upon an old DVD, the Concert for New York, which helped the world get through 9/11, and it occurred to me – the time has come again:  We need another concert – a big one – the biggest ever – the most united ever. We need to stand up and sing together. We need to raise our voices and praise who we are when we’re at our best. We need to show the strength of our hearts and the power of our spirits.

And while the music plays, we need to weep – together – to mourn who some of us have become and to lead the rest of us toward each other. We need to reach out and find ourselves together, offering shoulders upon which to cry and hearts with which to meld. It is the music that will do that.


Say Anything | the tragic whaleThe concert I produce in my head stars every great voice and instrumentalist of our times. It goes on for days – just blasting music from venues all over the world into the air, filling it with song. Then, at a designated moment, musicians worldwide begin to play “We are the World,” and we all – the world - come out of our homes, with speakers raised to the sky, and voices singing about who we are. 

There comes a time when we hear a certain call.
When the world must come together as one
There are people dying and it's time to lend a hand
To life the greatest gift of all.”  *

So how’s this going to affect the savage beasts whom music does not soothe? Well, it’s not about them for a change. It’s about us – the good people, the people you and I love – the ones who want love to prevail. We are the world, and we need to stand together and say it.


So that’s my plan.  Any takers? Quincy? Lionel? Bono? Bruce? Beyonce?



Suzanne McLain Rosenwasser is the author of several books:

Order paperbacks or ebooks at all online sellers or click here for Amazon orders:
http://amazon.com/author/suzannerosenwasser

*Songwriters

  RICHIE, LIONEL / JACKSON, MICHAEL
  Published by
  Lyrics © Sony/ATV Music Publishing LLC, Warner/Chappell Music, Inc.





Sunday, September 13, 2015

Beltline Beauty: Atlanta's Lantern Parade

Today’s List:

1. You must enter Atlanta's lantern parade into your 2016 calendar immediately.
2. If you won’t be in Atlanta the second Saturday of September 2016, check to see if there is a lantern parade somewhere nearby. Or, start one.

I was at the 2015 Lantern Parade in Atlanta last night, sitting on the last leg of the route. I was cracking neon jewelry for the three pre-k’s I was with and chatting with their parents who were trying to keep the paper lanterns we made on the sticks that held them. Not an easy task because when wielded by a three-year-old these things become weapons. However, since everyone is getting stuck by someone else’s lantern pole, it makes for a merriness.

In fact, the whole night was riddled with glee. Well, not the moment when two of the pre-k’s lost their helium balloons, but certainly the rest of it.

Across the Beltline path from us a small combo played Baby Boomer hits while the night fell. The pre-K’s danced in neon abandon and we all scurried about trying to corral them into a limited space as the crowds arrived. Then the moon came up, the stars came out, and the glow of a community of light surrounding us pulsed with that wonderful hum of a city at play.

And trust me, Atlantans came out to play on the Beltline last night. We saw jellyfish lanterns and Hindenburg lanterns; Minion, Madonna, and makeshift lanterns. We saw people strung up, down, and around with twinkling lights; Segways in neon glory; a group setting off beaming, flying saucers in unison; people tossing glowing Frisbees back and forth from the path to the overpass. We saw neon dreadlocks, neon footwear, neon signs, and neon nonsense. We saw half-naked women walk by painted in body glow wonder.

And then the parade reached us.

It was led by the brightly lit and legendary Atlanta marching band, The Abominables. Twinkling umbrellas twirled, gleaming trombones blared, and a glowing pumpkin head conducted. What followed was a stream of people having a great deal of fun while filling some more people with a great deal of delight.




                                                       

Bravo, Atlanta, what a spectacle of home-made beauty! Families paraded with themed lanterns, pulling neon bedecked kids in red wagons, followed by friends with flashing lasers, and neighbors  in neon hats.  There were two enormous, flowing white birds, so airy their wings kissed our cheeks as they passed to ooohs and ahhhs of every caliber. We applauded, we cheered, and we even got a little teary.



The softness of the lanterns floating on the first crisp wafts of fall was just the right touch for the summer weary and wobegeone among us. We all came to that parade last night with some weight burdening our neon glow – from lost balloons to lost youth; lost hope to lost faith; lost health to lost love. But somehow when the night fell, the pooled light of all that creativity infused us with a profound truth. Together, we can light the way. Together, Atlanta did it last night.


Suzanne McLain Rosenwasser is the author of several books:


Order paperbacks or ebooks at all online sellers or click here for Amazon orders:
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